Getting started - How to build your kit

[Danno]

Hey All,

Due to the volume of e-mails and PM request that I have had, I thought it might
be best to do this as a thread. Many of you have questions about how to go about
doing a kit and I hope that this will help.

Now.....it is important, what I am about to explain is nothing more than 1 way of
going about things. There are several ways to go about and accomplish the
same thing...this is not gospel....not the only way....just A way to get going.

OK...lets get started...

Typically, when resin is cast...there may be a "Mold Release" used to help the
resin parts come cleanly from the silicone molds. This Mold release should be
washed off to help your primer make a better bond to the resin. You will hear
many suggestions to what to use, but here in the basic...just getting started,
I am going to say simply use warm water and a degreasing dishsoap. This soap
with accomplsh two things, first is will wash off the mold release and second,
the soap will help break the surface tention and allow for a better bond. Scrub
your parts with an old tooth brush and rinse with warm water and let the parts airdry overnight.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189190089.jpg

Now, with your parts all clean, you are ready to begin sanding down the mold
lines on the parts. Taking each part, using sandpaper/needle files/dremmel,
etc... smooth down the mold line.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189190554.jpg

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189190555.jpg

[fossa]

next?

[Danno]

Now, with your parts all sanded and smooth, you are ready to begin assembly.
For a tighter, stronger fit, you will want to pin the joining parts together.
What you will want to do is measure/mark off where the pin will meet at both
pieces at the joint and drill holes into the parts.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189183307.jpg

At times, this can be tough to get right. An easy way to set your pin is to glue
the parts together and drill into the kit so that the pin will set into both of the
joining parts.

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189191296.jpg

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189191298.jpg

For the pin, you can use old wire coat hangers, brass rod (found at most
hobby and hardware stores, etc..), threaded rod, nails, screws, etc...
Measure the length of the pin and cut to size.

[Danno]

With the pin holes made, test fit the parts.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189191867.jpg

Now, there are all kinds of glues, but I prefer to use Devcon Plastic Welder.
Basically, this is a 2 part epoxy that you mix equal portions. The glue sets up in
4 minutes and has a test strength of 4500 lbs for a good solid joint. You can
find Plastic Welder near the other 30 minute 5 minute Epoxy glues at your local
hardware store or Walmart. Attach each part, one at a time, holding the joining
parts for a few minutes until the epoxy sets up.

Once you have your kit is assembled, you will need to putty up the seams
of the joining parts. I recommend Aves Apoxie Sculpt and Aves Safety Solvent.

http://www.avesstudio.com/

Aves makes a putty that is very easy to work with and is non-toxic. Mix your
Aves Apoxie Sculpt with two equal parts and using a sculpting tool and your
fingers, apply the putty over the seams. (you may need to resculpt in any
detail or texture if the joint has that). and Aves can be smoothed out simply
taking an old paint brush and feathering it out with the Safety Solvent.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/99677896.jpg

After you have puttied up the seams, allow the putty to set up overnight.
You can come back the next day and sand it down for further smoothing.

And there you go...you have built your kit. Wipe your kit down with a lint
free cloth and prime it using Dupli-Color light Grey "Filler" primer (this can
be found at most Auto chain stores and your local Walmart in the auto
section). Prime your kit with a few light coats to get a nice even coverage,
do not try and "Hose" your kit with one heavy spray of primer to avoid
heavy build up and such.

There you go...now start painting

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189194448.jpg

[Danno]

As a final word, I really recommend that you consider subscribing to the
Modeling Magazines. Kitbuilders Magazine (the magazine I write for) and AFM are
dedicated to teaching techniques specifically on building and painting figures.

Like I've said...what I am explaining here is not the ONLY way...just A way to
help you all get started. By reading articles written by the many other talented
builders and painters, you will learn many different ways to accomplish what you
need to and see what works best for you.

As for painting, there is no simple way to explain this. If there were....there
would be no need for a magazine to continue. There is alot involved with
different aspects of painting. Everything from hand brushing, to pastels, to
washes, to glazes, to airbrushing, and etc.....

You can get more info on subscriptions at:

http://www.kitbuildersmagazine.com/

and

http://www.amazingmodeler.com/


I hope this helps you all get started.

[saul62]

Danno, great tutoring brother, you summed it all up...awesome!!!!

Saul

[kaza5555]

This is great, Danno. Thanks for the tip. Question, do you prime the grey filler using an airbrush or a standard paint brush?

[High Lord Apocalypse]

thanx danno, u da man!

[Danno]

This is great, Danno. Thanks for the tip. Question, do you prime the grey filler using an airbrush or a standard paint brush?

Dupli-Color can be bought in the old fashoned rattle can spray can, this is what I use. Great stuff!!!!

[moon_knight1971]

This is GREAT Danno! This is the kinda stuff we need more on this site. Thanks for sharing!:)

[fenix v.2.0]

Thanks Danno!!!!

I want to subscribe to kit builder but i have a question, is this put out quarterly, bi-monthly, monthly?

[Danno]

Thanks Danno!!!!

I want to subscribe to kit builder but i have a question, is this put out quarterly, bi-monthly, monthly?

Hey Fenix,

That's great, I think that you will find the articles and information very useful. Kitbuilders Magazine and AFM are both quarterly publications (appox. 4 times per year) and the subscriptions are set for 4 issues each.

[fossa]

i *KNEW* you were going to get a plug in to subscribe to the magazine :thumbs2: :)

[Danno]

i *KNEW* you were going to get a plug in to subscribe to the magazine :thumbs2: :)

LMAO!!!! Well, I have no stock or ownership in either magazine...so it makes no
$$$ for me. BUT.....what it does do, is provide tons and tons of info that will help answer your questions from the different points of view of many artists. Remember, there is more than 1 way to skin a cat. :)

[Jesse321]

Danno .. thanks for this! :thumbs2:

HEY MODS ... this should be made a sticky!

[fossa]

HEY MODS ... this should be made a sticky!
good idea :)

for a change :p

[Jesse321]

good idea :)

for a change :pTreat that joke with care .. it's an antique. :rolleyes:

[fossa]

Treat that joke with care .. it's an antique. :rolleyes:
Will do :)

So why the Gossamer? I have a Ron Lee figurine of him. He is a pretty cool character, tho.

[Jesse321]

One of my favorite Warner Brothers characters .. him and Witch Hazel. :D

[Sniper]

thank you for all the information

[Kirk Durfey]

Thanks for the tutorial, Danno! Though I've built kits, its been awhile and its nice to see the process put into words and pics again.

[rilynil]

Thanks, Danno! This is incredibly informative :)

[Bullseye]

Very well described Danno and an excellent tutorial. What is that fantastic looking Predator Kit. It looks 1/4 scale?

[Portugueezer]

Excellent!!!! :buttrock:
Thank you very much Danno! I wish there was more awesome stuff like your thread in this forum.. Any chance of giving us some pointers on the painting process...... pleeeaaaseee?

[Danno]

What is that fantastic looking Predator Kit. It looks
1/4 scale?

Hey Bulls, this is a 1/3rd scale (27 inch tall) Predator 2 from MK Creature Shop of
Japan. I had done a build up/ paint "how to" article on this in the last issue of
Kitbuilders Magazine (Issue 54).

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189266942.jpg

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL826/450444/594429/189266939.jpg

[Danno]

Excellent!!!! :buttrock:
Thank you very much Danno! I wish there was more awesome stuff like your thread in this forum.. Any chance of giving us some pointers on the painting process...... pleeeaaaseee?

Painting is MUCH MUCH MUCH more difficult to do as a simple tutorial...especially
since the paint work can change SO drastically from piece to piece. For
example....painting flesh tones can change from sculpture to sculpture, based
on what it is and the look/effect you are going for. This is why I really
recommend subscribing to the magazines for this type of thing so that you can
read about the many methods and aspects of painting. Unless it is a very
specific question, a broad painting instruction would take hours upon hours to
write and 100's of pages of text.

[Jesse321]

Excellent!!!! :buttrock:
Thank you very much Danno! I wish there was more awesome stuff like your thread in this forum.. Any chance of giving us some pointers on the painting process...... pleeeaaaseee?There are some TERRIFIC video tapes called Model Mania with David Fisher (it's a 3 volume set) that have some REALLY great information to them, not to mention a lot of step by step processes with readily available model kits.

There is also a tape called Expliations in Painting that was put out by Horizon that's good too.

[C. Bormann]

Resin kit building 101:buttrock:

Thanks for the advice.

[Barbarian]

Righteous thread Danno. Thanks for the tips, man.:thumbs2:

['Nuff]

There are some TERRIFIC video tapes called Model Mania with David Fisher (it's a 3 volume set) that have some REALLY great information to them, not to mention a lot of step by step processes with readily available model kits.

There is also a tape called Expliations in Painting that was put out by Horizon that's good too.

Actually DF has put out 5 volumes...the 5th is on a DVD with Vol. 4...You are right though...They are "TERRIFIC"...Not to take anything away from Danno...His info is superb...I've been painting for over 40 years and learned something....Thanks Danno...:thumbs2:

['Nuff]

Righteous thread Danno. Thanks for the tips, man.:thumbs2:

Hello Barbarian...How's things in the desert...?...

[Barbarian]

Hello Barbarian...How's things in the desert...?...
Summer's finally spreading it's firey wings like the Phoenix, and fading away, leaving room for the gorgeous Autumn weather of the Valley of the Sun. Mighty fine, in other words, my friend. And how's thang's in Texas?

['Nuff]

Summer's finally spreading it's firey wings like the Phoenix, and fading away, leaving room for the gorgeous Autumn weather of the Valley of the Sun. Mighty fine, in other words, my friend. And how's thang's in Texas?

Very nice description...Cooler weather is here...a welcome relief from the 3 digit temps...Am finally able to get outside and do some work...Which takes me away from building/painting...But a welcome relief...Keep safe...:thumbs2:

[Jesse321]

Actually DF has put out 5 volumes...the 5th is on a DVD with Vol. 4...You are right though...They are "TERRIFIC"...Not to take anything away from Danno...His info is superb...I've been painting for over 40 years and learned something....Thanks Danno...:thumbs2:Thanks Nuff ... I didn't know that David continued the series .. I just ordered volumes 4 & 5 on DVD. :thumbs2:

['Nuff]

Thanks Nuff ... I didn't know that David continued the series .. I just ordered volumes 4 & 5 on DVD. :thumbs2:

Cool...I'll pass as I already have the first 4...Until he comes out with Vol. 5 by it's lonesome...As John Wayne once said in a movie..."I don't like paying for the same real-estate twice."..."Sands of Iwo Jima" comes to mind...:thumbs2:

[Barbarian]

Very nice description...Cooler weather is here...a welcome relief from the 3 digit temps...Am finally able to get outside and do some work...Which takes me away from building/painting...But a welcome relief...Keep safe...:thumbs2:

Sho nuff. Back atcha.:)

[Portugueezer]

Hey Jesse and Danno!
Thanks for the tips! I´ll try to somehow find the things you guys suggested.
Thanks once again:buttrock:

[C. Bormann]

Aves makes a putty that is very easy to work with and is non-toxic. Mix your
Aves Apoxie Sculpt with two equal parts and using a sculpting tool and your
fingers, apply the putty over the seams. (you may need to resculpt in any
detail or texture if the joint has that). and Aves can be smoothed out simply
taking an old paint brush and feathering it out with the Safety Solvent.



What is your handling time with this product? I've used BONDO in the past, but productive handling time is usually only 5 to 10 minutes. With total hardness at about 20 minutes.

[Danno]

What is your handling time with this product? I've used BONDO in the past, but productive handling time is usually only 5 to 10 minutes. With total hardness at about 20 minutes.

I would say about an hour or so, before it starts to stiffen up to a point that you cannot sculpt in clean detail. Great stuff!

[HELLION]

This is GREAT Danno! This is the kinda stuff we need more on this site. Thanks for sharing!:)
I echo moons thought
thank you Danno!

[fenix v.2.0]

Danno, what kind of soap? Sorry if it was mentioned before.

[Danno]

Danno, what kind of soap? Sorry if it was mentioned before.

Hey Fenix,

The main purpose of washing the kit is to remove the (at times) oily mold release that can coat the casting (some casters actually use Vaseline thinned with mineral spirits that can leave a real nasty and hard to remove film over the resin parts). It depends on the caster...there are castings that come in where paintable spray mold release is used to the really nasty oil stuff. But it is always best to wash the parts as a rule of thumb.

With this being said, you need to use a soap/cleaner that will remove that mold release. many time, simple dish soap like Dawn (since it is a degreasing dishsoap) works perfect along with warm water and an old toothbrush. There are times when you may need to get a bit more aggressive and use a heavy duty kitchen cleaner degreaser (I use 509 Orange Clean for the tuff stuff), especially on the vaseline ones.

[moonlightdrive21]

Excellent Danno!!!

[Alex655321]

Great tutorial!
and for those of us who still won't be able to do thier own, its good to see the process in action.

[dodiduck]

Hi, Danno i'm new in this forum and willing to keep up:stick: after i 'd read yours article,very impressive and need yours advice about:How can i made a monster eyes and mouth look wet and juicy like you did? it so real and look alive.

[Mancunian Lee]

Hi

Ive just signed up so i could thank you for the post, its come in very helpful and has improved my statue making no end :buttrock: Ill certainly try and pick up the mag now too.

Lee

[Wesley Pierce]

A tropic I was very interested in.. Great pics and info, Danno. I'll be contacting you soon.

[Gianco]

Thanks Danno, great tutorial!!! Nice advices and tips, it will help a lot! :thumbs2:

[lehmkade]

Just wanted to say thank you. I found this very helpful. A picture is worth a 1,000 words is right :buttrock:

[TEXAN75]

Thanks, Danno.
You have insired me to give it a go!
(Great more money to spend! first on the kits, the supplies and paint, ouch!)

[starmanmm]

Ok Danno, dumb question... but that shot of you spraying the Predator... using a 20/20... I notice that you are spraying very close to your subject.

Is that because of the paint your are using or the type of AB or that is how your are suppose to spray... up close and personnal? :confused:

[VinReaper]

Awesome tutorial. I know nothing of sculpting, modding, kit building or painting. An this tutorial has taken out some of the fear and apprehension I had in trying it.

Good Job Danno! I will give it a shot.

VR

[ickwinzs]

Ok Danno, dumb question... but that shot of you spraying the Predator... using a 20/20... I notice that you are spraying very close to your subject.

Is that because of the paint your are using or the type of AB or that is how your are suppose to spray... up close and personnal? :confused:

The closer you are to the piece the finer line you'll get.

[VinReaper]

Is there a thread that lists all the tools needed for kit building, painting and repairing? A supplies list of sorts.

It would be nice to hear what the best brands/supplies are to outfit the tool box.

VR

[Danno]

Ok Danno, dumb question... but that shot of you spraying the Predator... using a 20/20... I notice that you are spraying very close to your subject.

Is that because of the paint your are using or the type of AB or that is how your are suppose to spray... up close and personnal? :confused:

Ick is dead on correct, with pressure set to about 8-10 psi and a good detail airbrush (like the Badger Sotar 20/20), I get up close to spray very thin fine detail work. The further away your airbrush, the wider the spray coverage.

[Danno]

Is there a thread that lists all the tools needed for kit building, painting and repairing? A supplies list of sorts.

It would be nice to hear what the best brands/supplies are to outfit the tool box.

VR

Hey Vin,

There have been quite a few threads on paint, air brushes, and compressors...but I don't think anyone has done it on all the other tools of the trade.

But here is a nice little list of some things I like to use:

Princeton Art and Brush Company or Windsor and Newton Series 7 paint brushes

#20/0 Spotter
#10/0 Spotter
#20/0 Liner
#10/0 Liner
#5/0 Filbert
0 Filbert
1 Filbert
2 Filbert
4 Filbert

MicroMark set of Drybrush Brushes

Dremmel or Sears Craftsman Rotary tool

Lasco Diamond for your rotary bits
http://www.lascodiamond.com/
Mainly I recommend:
BD10-2 Diamond cutoff wheel
31P Titanium Bur
(these two bits will do about 90% of your rotary needs)

AVES Apoxie Sculpt for your putty

Windsor and Newton Brush Cleaner

3M Sandblaster sanding sponges (all grits)

Devcon Plastic Welder and 5-Min Epoxy

Great Plains CA CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue and kicker (Cyanoacrylate Accelerator

MicroMark Diamond Mini Files
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=82248

No Brands for this stuff, just things you will need:
Steel Wool
Linesman Pliers
needle nose pliers
Vicegrips
Wire Cutter
Putty Knives
Hobby files
Sandpaper
Pinvice
Drill and drillbits
Scribing tool
Hobby Knife

You will use more as you move on, but I think this is the basic list of things to get you rolling. I may have forgotten an item or two, please forgive me...I still have not had my first cup of coffee yet.

[VinReaper]

Hey Vin,

There have been quite a few threads on paint, air brushes, and compressors...but I don't think anyone has done it on all the other tools of the trade.

But here is a nice little list of some things I like to use:

Princeton Art and Brush Company or Windsor and Newton Series 7 paint brushes

#20/0 Spotter
#10/0 Spotter
#20/0 Liner
#10/0 Liner
#5/0 Filbert
0 Filbert
1 Filbert
2 Filbert
4 Filbert

MicroMark set of Drybrush Brushes

Dremmel or Sear Craftsman Rotary tool

Lasco Diamond for your rotary bits
http://www.lascodiamond.com/
Mainly I recommend:
BD10-2 Diamond cutoff wheel
31P Titanium Bur
(these two bits will do about 90% of your rotary needs)

AVES Apoxie Sculpt for your putty

Windsor and Newton Brush Cleaner

3M Sandblaster sanding sponges (all grits)

Devcon Plastic Welder and 5-Min Epoxy

Great Plains CA CA (Cyanoacrylate) glue and kicker (Cyanoacrylate Accelerator

MicroMark Diamond Mini Files
http://www.ares-server.com/Ares/Ares...oduct&ID=82248

No Brands for this stuff, just things you will need:
Steel Wool
Linesman Pliers
needle nose pliers
Vicegrips
Wire Cutter
Putty Knives
Hobby files
Sandpaper
Pinvice
Drill and drillbits
Scribing tool
Hobby Knife

You will use more as you move on, but I think this is the basic list of things to get you rolling. I may have forgotten an item or two, please forgive me...I still have not had my first cup of coffee yet.

Danno you're the best!

You just helped me start my New year off right!


Have a Happy and a Healthy one!!!

Thanks!!

VR

[starmanmm]

Thanks ickwinzs and Danno. I got that AB from the WF class and I didn't recall being that close to the work... so I was wondering if I had slept through a part of the class! :stick:

I do recall the pizza and such tho! :D

[Danno]

Thanks ickwinzs and Danno. I got that AB from the WF class and I didn't recall being that close to the work... so I was wondering if I had slept through a part of the class! :stick:

I do recall the pizza and such tho! :D

Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm............PIZZA!

[ickwinzs]

Thanks ickwinzs and Danno. I got that AB from the WF class and I didn't recall being that close to the work... so I was wondering if I had slept through a part of the class! :stick:

I do recall the pizza and such tho! :D

Well hell did we meet? Where you at the class this year?

[starmanmm]

ickwinzs wrote:
Well hell did we meet? Where you at the class this year?

I can't say if we had met personnally... Danno I did. (asked him a lot of questions like... "What... take the AB apart... uh... beginners class here guy. Don't know how to do that!" :confused: ) ;)

So, yup.. was there. Was in the beginners class. Now that was the first time that I had ever spent so much time on a kit! I usually work on a kit for about 2 hours a day or so... but that was a first for me!

Good time!

Pizza remember! :D

[ickwinzs]

yup I remember the Pizza!! Well hell, next time we'll have to meet! i was in the begginers class also

[superman4ever]

There are 2 kits I'm in the process of buying right now and there is absolutely NO way I can do any of that. :(

[Cobblepot]

Is there other stuff I can use to smooth the Apoxy sculpt other than the solvent?

[Danno]

Is there other stuff I can use to smooth the Apoxy sculpt other than the solvent?

Sure, you can use water, spit, rubbing alcohol, but the Safety Solvent works the best and helps to "firm" up the clay as you are working it.

[Cobblepot]

Thanks Danno, are you familiar with Bison's epoxy stick?

http://www.onlinebouwmarkt.nl/winkel/view_product.php?product=BISW8AE613

Would this be a subsitute for Apoxy sculpt? I bought it already since it's only 5 euro, and tried some on a test subject. It hardens great, but it stick to your fingers while sculpting and it smells BAD! Oh and after 2/3 minutes it is hardened.

The reason why I'm asking is, I only intend to build one kit and I don't wan't to buy a lot of expensive materials in larger quantaties that I will need.

[Danno]

I am sorry but no, I am not familiar with the product. If I were to assume, I would imagine that it is toxic and very similar to the many plumbing epoxy's that are on the market. If that is the case, it is very hard to tool, form, shape and smooth

I used to use putties like that many years ago (since I was not aware of a product like AVES at that time), but since I had begun using AVES Apoxie clays, I won't use anything else.

[Cobblepot]

Then I will need to get me some AVES. Thanks for the advice. It's for AHR's batman statue.
http://www.statueforum.com/showthread.php?t=65585

one more question, If I use oil paints for the face bit's can I seal it with a sealer afterwards together with the rest of the statue?

[Danno]

You have to allow the oil paints to dry and cure before sealing with a sealer top coat.

[Cobblepot]

Thanks Danno.

[Comicboy]

Danno you live like 2 hours from me and I can't find Devcon to save my life! We even have a Hobby Lobby now! New store.....always had Michaels though. Devcon is like banned in this burg or something. Oh well. On a brighter note we have an Aves supplier here so I can pick it right up! :buttrock: Under yours and others expert tutelage we'll all be broke in no time. :laugh: Barbara just emailed me to tell me my subscription needs to be renewed....off I go.

[Danno]

I usually find Devcon Plastic Welder and Devcon 5-Minute Epoxy at Walmart. :)

[Comicboy]

Well of course we've got a Superstore but I've never stepped foot in it. I might now just to see if they have it.

[Cobblepot]

Is it save to use white spirit or dry-cleaning naphta (a sort of lichter fluid) to prep the vilnyl before primer?

[Danno]

Is it save to use white spirit or dry-cleaning naphta (a sort of lichter fluid) to prep the vilnyl before primer?

You should not have a problem with those, but typically you don't need anything quite so harsh. Just a basic degreasing soap (like dish soap) is enough to remove most most release agents.

[Cobblepot]

Thanks.

[skorpsta]

love this thread danno..i always go back to it and view your tutorial..awesome!..and thanks

[VinReaper]

Danno! You should hold classes!


I'd be the first one to sign up! :thumbs2:



VR

[JadeGiant]

Danno! You should hold classes!


I'd be the first one to sign up! :thumbs2:



VR

what he said!

[Blasterkid]

looks great!