longevity of sculpy firm?

[SONICobra]

I recently modified the hair on a head sculpt using sculpey firm because it took a while to get right and I honestly cant sculpt aves to the point it doesn't need sanding. the sculpey is probably about 1/8" deep at its thickest (probably less) and is attached to the sculpt in all areas (no pieces sticking out)

for those more experienced than I - what are your opinions of the longevity of this sculpey if I just bake it and paint. I don't want it to crack in the future and was originally planning on making a mold but if I can avoid all that it would be great

[logan25]

Originally Posted by SONICobra

I recently modified the hair on a head sculpt using sculpey firm because it took a while to get right and I honestly cant sculpt aves to the point it doesn't need sanding. the sculpey is probably about 1/8" deep at its thickest (probably less) and is attached to the sculpt in all areas (no pieces sticking out)

for those more experienced than I - what are your opinions of the longevity of this sculpey if I just bake it and paint. I don't want it to crack in the future and was originally planning on making a mold but if I can avoid all that it would be great

Is the head resin? if you are cooking it whilst attached to the head it may crack as it cools due to the clay flexing and cooling differently to the resin

[Spazzy]

It is definitely more brittle, I sucked it up and just learned I deal with aves, although you are right it is tough to get it perfect without needing to sand something, but I have always been a better carver than sculptor.

[rgm501]

I got sculpts made years ago with super sculpey/ sculpey firm, without a single crack but I've also got sculpts made less than 6 months ago full of cracks.
I think the key is getting the cooking just right.

Like others, I've just learnt to use aves for such jobs.
The key to sculpting with aves is to do in layers.
It's a much longer process, but it works!

[SONICobra]

hmm thanks for the tips guys... I guess I might just have to suck it up and make a mold. the only thing keeping me from doing this is last time I made a test mold I kept getting bubbles in the cast that's why I was hoping I could just bake it and paint

[Spazzy]

I have done at least 60 molds and learn something almost everytime

[SONICobra]

yeah I hear ya there, first one was an absolute disaster LOL

[rgm501]

Like spazzy I've made lots of molds and constantly learn and get better with every one.
Have you tried 'pre-pouring' you molds to avoid air bubbles?

[SONICobra]

no what do you mean by that?

thing im going to try next is attaching wires covered in clay to trouble areas to create vents. I kept getting bubbles on the chin and bottom of the ears for example

[rgm501]

Originally Posted by SONICobra

no what do you mean by that?

thing im going to try next is attaching wires covered in clay to trouble areas to create vents. I kept getting bubbles on the chin and bottom of the ears for example

Pre-pouring your mold is absolutely essential if you're not using an air compression chamber.

Pre-pouring is something I take into consideration before I even make the mold, in terms of the seam, air channels ect.

So basically once your mold is finished separate the two pieces, example picture 1

Then pour the trouble areas of each side of the mold, use a skewer or toothpick or something similar to that to release any air bubbles while the resin is still clear.
Then depending on the Cure time of your resin, when it starts to turn white and gels to the point when it won't run, close the mold.
example picture 2

Once the mold is closed you should be left with a Chanel with no nooks and crannies for a bubbles too hide.
But note that you should have two channels one to pour the resin into and one to let the air escape.
Example picture 3

I learnt all this stuff the Hard way by trial and Error, I hope I can save you the time.

Pic 1



Pic 2


Pic 3