analog sculpting scanning workflow?

[ArtStudent]

Greetings All.
This is my first post and I'm overjoyed to have found this site. I study fine art at a University, but am interested in toys so finding this Pit Stop is unique and exciting.

I have done some 3D design / print but never tried sculpting, with clay / wax etc. I noticed a thread about working with clay or wax etc, and scanning it after to make cad models for production.

Does anyone have any general words to search for when exploring the world of digitizing models?

I'm interested in hearing from people who model specifically with digitizing in mind, and what scales they work at (small? big?). What materials, scanners.. Anything really.

Any random directions people can point me in would be appreciated, and I will be browsing the forums starting today.

As

[Parvo]

sI work in clays and wax by hand, and still haven't 3d scanned anything yet, however, I''ve been looking for something similar that what you propose.

3D scanning hasn't caught up the same speed as consumer 3d printing, and still is very expensive. There isn't a scanner that does every scale and solves every problem, so you really want to know your application througout, beforehand. If it's for institutional work in your university, sometimes renting equipment or contacting a private party that does scanning solves the problem.

For individuals, without industry $$ backing, the way to go about a year ago was the david scanner kit (SL2 or SL3). It's a structured light based scanner, modular scanner solution: software + hardware (DLP projector and camera) that sells as a bundle, but you could also buy the parts separately.
It costs 3k/4k USD, depending on where you get it. Resolution wise, is better than hobby laser scanning systems and I believe it's about hundreds of microns or tenth of microns accuracy level (gotta check the specs chart). Enough to capture fingerprints.

Below is a link to user gallery images.
http://www.david-3d.com/en/news&community/usergallery

It works well for small scale items, still objets. They got a forum of their own in the link.

The resolution of the off the shelf kit is good enough to do 1:1 scanning of busts, 1:3 statues and some people even got tinier. Probably buying a better projector and camera, and some serious calibration knowledge will be necessary for miniatures or anything as a coin size for example. Upgradability is a great plus of this system, although at the moment the hurdle is that every time you scan something the system must be calibrated, and it's better used alongside a rotating table. More expensive solutions come precalibrated, but you cannot upgrade any component, and instead ought to buy another scanner altogether.

Other comparable scanner in quality at the moment of writing this (jan 2016) of similar quality sell for tens of thousand of dollars and up. The HDI blue light scanner from 3d3 solutions is about 15k USD.

What I looked up, applies for 1:6 scale modelling of still objects. Moving, living subjects, or bigger things may need different equipment.

[ArtStudent]

Hi Parvo,

Thanks for the response. I had subscribed to the thread but hadn't received email notification, and just came back today.

Your scanner suggestions and price range overview are very much appreciated. I should have mentioned I actually have access to a decent scanner through school (as you mention).

Given this access, do you have any suggestions for scale? To get better results should I model bigger? Say for a robot, how would a 10" model scan vs 24"?

-as

[Parvo]

I'd say 10" or 25" are just about perfect and safe options in terms of manipulation, placing it in a turntable, focusing the camera and actually sculpting or modeling. 1:3 scale in general would be comfortable to work on. You'd get some more problems under those scales (although it's not impossible to get fine detail) and may need better components than the kit includes to get every nook and cranny. There is a calibration step that needs to be done every time you scan something. That ought to be used at the start of each with a dotted pattern at the desired scale and distance of your object. So, for 1:3 or more or less bigger you can safely use the included calibration panel. If you need something bigger or much much smaller, there's the need to print one small or big. The light conditions of your enviroment affect also the scan.

You need to understand this scan system as a fixed position system. The scanner should be very stable. The calibration pannel should be of an approrpiate size and at the distance of your scanned object placement and the scanned object should only move in order to rotate ideally over a turn table and capture al the detail , and remain still in every other sense. Any variation in this affect the quality of the scan.

The david scanner is what I'd get for personal use for the reasons I explained, so in all manners go for it. It's very much the most affordable professional scanner at the moment. Check the user submitted images I posted earlier and take a look to their forum. That'll clear up some of your doubts.

[ArtStudent]

Parvo,

Thanks for the great advice again. I've gone to look at that David scanner and it looks amazing.

You're a great source of knowledge my friend.

Thank You
-as