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Old 07-22-2013, 09:03 PM   #31
BLACK OPS
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Anybody out there know what is the best wire to use in cloth capes to get the same effect as Sideshow does with theirs.
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Old 07-23-2013, 04:05 AM   #32
Alaneye
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I've made hanging capes with just sculpey, but if you want something windblown there are the fine aluminium meshes:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...ie+mesh&_rdc=1
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:01 AM   #33
Boondog
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I'm with everyone on teh magic sculpt advice, but I have an addendum. This is particularily handy for larger pieces or capes with a dynamic flow, but I will build a skeletal framework for the capes flow, rigged from the back (holes can be puttied once you're done), extending out at whatever length and shape you desire, then run a base rod up the line of the end of the cape and wrap/putty your wire ends to this so everything is rigid, this will allow you to get really cool shapes with a considerable amount of control and without worrying about the weight of the aves/magicsculpt dragging out the details you worked so hard for, or slip off the back/neck where it is attached to the figure. Hope this helps

Also look up stuff called cinefoil, it's a super-rigid auminum foil designed for doing drapery in stop motion, holds shape and serves as a good cape armature
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:43 AM   #34
Darth Kinetic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alaneye View Post
I've made hanging capes with just sculpey, but if you want something windblown there are the fine aluminium meshes:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_fr...ie+mesh&_rdc=1
True but i found the mesh when pressed into the sculpey gives an unwanted texture
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:46 AM   #35
Darth Kinetic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boondog View Post
I'm with everyone on teh magic sculpt advice, but I have an addendum. This is particularily handy for larger pieces or capes with a dynamic flow, but I will build a skeletal framework for the capes flow, rigged from the back (holes can be puttied once you're done), extending out at whatever length and shape you desire, then run a base rod up the line of the end of the cape and wrap/putty your wire ends to this so everything is rigid, this will allow you to get really cool shapes with a considerable amount of control and without worrying about the weight of the aves/magicsculpt dragging out the details you worked so hard for, or slip off the back/neck where it is attached to the figure. Hope this helps

Also look up stuff called cinefoil, it's a super-rigid auminum foil designed for doing drapery in stop motion, holds shape and serves as a good cape armature
Pics of the process??
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:06 AM   #36
Darkeye
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make a cape out of plasticine and longer than you need, roll out some epoxy like MS between 2 pieces of plastic making sure the surface is lubed. this with allow the cape to expand inside the plastic with no finger marks. allow to set up for 35 minutes or more then apply the cape on to the proxy one with out touching it on the edges and use a soft brush to make it take the shape of the one underneath.
once cured, strip off the proxy cape and the plastic to reveal a shiny no fingermarks cape!!
hope this helps. it is very simple and avoids sanding epoxy which I hate.....

atb --tim
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:12 AM   #37
Darth Kinetic
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I now have some Aves Epoxy Sculpt what should I use as lube between the plastic?
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:14 PM   #38
Darkeye
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I just lightly brush the epoxy with vasilene on each side once I have rolled it out a little first. then put it betwixt the plastic (thin polythene bags are best) and roller that cape till smooth.
at about 2 hours you can take a new xacto blade and trim the cape once its set up and is the shape you want. you are bout to have odd edges that need squaring from the rollering.

essentially, the overly long plasticine cape at the start is what you grab and pose ; the rolled epoxy mimics cloth and will follow the proxy one. I do hope this is not too long winded and helps you.

all the best --tim
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