Baking Super Sculpey to achieve proper hardness

[Zombie]

Originally Posted by MASTERSHOKHAN

Zombie should store his clay in a plastic container..like a 1-gallon ice cream container. Zombie should keep his clay room temp also.

thank you!

[Danaedhel]

just one little thing...

we are talking about farenheit or celsius degrees??

I supposed farenheit, isn't it??

thanks

[CHUCKYBABY555]

Hi everyone, Bill you are the master, I just wanted to know if you have ever tried this? I have boiled my sculpted parts in water. I place the parts or entire peice if your pot is large enough in hot tap water then turn put it on the stove and let it come to a boil. I let it boil about 10 minutes then turn the heat off and let the water cool down naturally. Then remove from the water and let cool naturally. The peices are rock hard and completly set. i think the heat of the water surrounds the peice and let it cure uniformly and gets right into the center of the clay, and the plus is no burnt edges and Ive never had any cracks. Id like to know if anyone has ever tried this method?

[TheTiablo]

I've been doing that for about a few weeks now with Original Sculpey, but I don't leave it in there until the water coools. I turn the water off and take it out imediately. I usually leave it in for 10 minutes. I may start leaving it in there longer if I find it to be safe and won't release fumes.

[rAd]

Originally Posted by William Paquet

This works for me-

225 degrees for three hours, turn the oven down to the minimum- 170 degrees on most ovens, bake for another three hours, shut the oven off and leave the sculpt to cool overnight.

We are talking about Fahrenheit here right? NOT Celsius? So 225 is around 110 Celsius?

[antoniom187]

Originally Posted by William Paquet

I'm going to put together a comprehensive outline of separating a figure, including pics. Included will be dealing with cutting the armature and repairing any damage that occurs during the process.

Give me a little time to do this right. It's not brain surgery, but there are techniques that will make the work go easier.

Kdawg has offered to post stickies of any tutorials I want to offer, so I will try and give you guys as much info as I can, given my schedule and the time constraints that I have.

Hi William,

Did you get a chance to put a tutorial together on how to separate a figure? It would be really, really helpful.

[simpletoon]

Originally Posted by siegaard

Ever since midwestclay.com stopped selling the "Grey Sculpting Compound" to me, I've developed a matching hand-mixed formula using Premo & Super Sculpey.
1 of the 4 extruded bars that come in a 1 LB pack of Beige Super Sculpey
1/2 extruded bars of Premo White from the 2 OZ bar.
1/4 extruded bar of black Premo from 2 OZ bar.
This mix matches pretty closely the Polyform Grey Compound. This mix with premo gives the baked sculpt crack resistance and flexiblity.
I agree that all crack repairs have to wait until the final bake and cool-down and 24 hours cold before repairing hairline cracks by super gluing and shutting crack while it's warm. Big cracks get Aves after sanding and smoothing.
Wayne
www.figuresculpture.net

Hey siegaard,
I'm with you, on that method -
Back in the late 90s'; Before they ever came out with sculpey grey/firm, I started making my own version of Promat (my favorite of all pc), by mixing ss with metallic premo grey. Mainly because of detail, primer and visibility issues when using the normal, straight from the box ss. This formula seemed to exhibit, not only, great modeling & carving characteristics but much more durable product after baking. This may have been contributed by the tiny metal flakes mixed in the premo(?)

My local supplier, Pearl, have since pulled up stakes. I've had a hard time trying to find Premo metallic on line. I've had some unfortunate experiences with bad batches of ss firm (on occassion) ordered on line. Recently, I have found sculpey ss firm locally and can check the batch before I buy. Although they don't sell in bulk and the cost winds up killing me.
I'm slowly migrating to wax.

[Koger]

Originally Posted by CHUCKYBABY555

Hi everyone, Bill you are the master, I just wanted to know if you have ever tried this? I have boiled my sculpted parts in water. I place the parts or entire peice if your pot is large enough in hot tap water then turn put it on the stove and let it come to a boil. I let it boil about 10 minutes then turn the heat off and let the water cool down naturally. Then remove from the water and let cool naturally. The peices are rock hard and completly set. i think the heat of the water surrounds the peice and let it cure uniformly and gets right into the center of the clay, and the plus is no burnt edges and Ive never had any cracks. Id like to know if anyone has ever tried this method?

Hi guys! new to the forum, but it's already been a huge help to me. i tried the boiling method recently for a small bust i made and it turned out fantastically. on the two test pieces, a sphere and a long taper, i was pleased with the complete bake through in ten minutes flat. i even shattered the thickest sphere with a hammer in a sock and it was perfect throughout with no burns etc. i'm not sure what the long term effects on the structure of the clay are, but it took paint well and seems to be holding up fine. thanks again for the helpful tips, it was a relief and a huge improvement in my work flow for test pieces etc. now that i don't have to spend hours waiting on a single piece that might turn out worthless no matter the time spent sculpting.

[moore_000]

Read below link on more info on boiling the Sculpey:

http://www.statueforum.com/showthread.php?t=79360

[cyborgt800]

I'm a big fan of boiling sculpey...however The ultra light stuff can only be boiled ONCE from my experience...