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12-11-2014, 08:59 PM
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#101
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Doh!
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: New York
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZKULPTOR
Thank you Dillinger,
I think you are right, we will start polls.
I am currently bedridden, and it is hard to type on my phone, but as soon as this neck feels better I will start creating polls and interest lists.
Thank you for your kind words about the product.
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No problem Erick! Godspeed brother
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12-11-2014, 09:06 PM
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#102
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I am da law!
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,021
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To any experienced painters here, how does the material the statue is made of affect the painting process? Will you be using different kinds of paint for a polystone statue and a polyurethane statue? Will acetone work on both materials to remove paint without destroying the sculpt?
I know this should be asked at the painter's section but this is still related to what Erick has posted.
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12-11-2014, 11:10 PM
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#103
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A closed mouth gathers no foot.
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 443
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There are far more experienced painters on here than me but my "painting process" is the same for both polystone and Resin polyurethane kits. I build PrototyoeZ kits, prime them, and ultimately paint them the same way I would a SS or Bowen statue after I remove the paint from the polystone. The primer does not affect the resin in any way and then I use acrylic paint. I never paint directly in the piece without priming it. I have also used oils and pastels without any issues.
Now the "paint removal process" is a whole nother animal. For polystone I use acetone. Resin has to be treated different as acetone will eat away at it. There are whole tutorials in the painters corner for that. I'm too chicken to try acetone on the PrototypeZ kits lol.
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12-11-2014, 11:22 PM
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#104
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A closed mouth gathers no foot.
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NJ
Posts: 443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bananafarmer
so i send this to my builder/painter, once they complete their work building and painting, how do they send it on to me ? i assume its not going to fit back in the same box ?
I really want to get on board but if they cant resend in the same box, i dont think i can get them.
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After the piece is built it won't fit back into the box unfortunately. However what I do is break the box down and include it with the statue when I send it back. The boxes so far are the ones that have slots and tabs that can be collapsed and not have to be cut to break down.
The finished piece is secure with bubble wrap and foam pellets in proper sized box and safely delivered so far without incident.
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12-11-2014, 11:56 PM
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#105
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Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations?
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: The Electronic World
Posts: 7,007
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1/4 is sounding very pricey. Perhaps too pricey when you add in painting and other stuff. I only have Ryu so far and still haven't gotten around to finding a painter. But that's more about time and setup. Still with 1/4 at the price that people are talking about I can only see myself getting a few. And only the best versions. Ryu is still the best version of that character. All of the Street Fighter characters by Prototypez are the best I've seen. That would be my top need for future DC and Street Fighter kits at the 1/4 scale.
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12-12-2014, 02:37 AM
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#106
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Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way, when you criticize them, you're a mile away and you have their shoes.
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 619
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i see where erick is coming from ... ive always wondered how much a license would cost and im sure they are pricey but also if the final run of a kit is low due to not enough orders then these pieces will be highly sought after in time, im sure of it .. not everyone can afford purchasing these then getting them painted plus shipping on top of that..it all adds up fairly quick
i plan on ordering all of the kits that are released and hopefully prototype can keep the kits coming and i honestly wish erick and his crew the best of luck
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12-12-2014, 03:32 AM
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#107
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What happens if you get scared half to death twice?
Join Date: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,629
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Thanks for keeping everyone up to date here on what is currently going on Erick.
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12-12-2014, 11:39 AM
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#108
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42.7 percent of all statistics are made up on the spot.
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 153
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Hi Erick, take care of your health man. A holiday of two weeks on the Bahamas will do nicely!
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12-12-2014, 11:15 PM
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#109
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If you saw a heat wave, would you wave back?
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 2,988
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Can't wait to see more from this line. Any idea how you might cut and key this m8??
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12-13-2014, 02:23 AM
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#110
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Hercules
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: San Diego
Posts: 14,169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LOOP-DOG
There are far more experienced painters on here than me but my "painting process" is the same for both polystone and Resin polyurethane kits. I build PrototyoeZ kits, prime them, and ultimately paint them the same way I would a SS or Bowen statue after I remove the paint from the polystone. The primer does not affect the resin in any way and then I use acrylic paint. I never paint directly in the piece without priming it. I have also used oils and pastels without any issues.
Now the "paint removal process" is a whole nother animal. For polystone I use acetone. Resin has to be treated different as acetone will eat away at it. There are whole tutorials in the painters corner for that. I'm too chicken to try acetone on the PrototypeZ kits lol.
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acetone is scary stuff, I know some like to soak their polystone pieces, but after I removed paint from a SS rogue head after a few mistakes I noticed it starting to eat into the polystone so I will never soak it in acetone for fear of that happening, now it is just some good ol elbow grease to remove paint.
but without the stone filler, yeah acetone will melt right through the resin if left on long enough. alcohol 91% is good too safer but not as strong obviously.
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