Subject sharpness

[P1X4R]

i thought i would start a thread that discusses techniques on getting our images the best overall sharpness from all areas for a statue/bust. the biggest challenge has always been getting that depth of field just right to get all parts of the subject in focus. generally the obvious technique is to bump up the f/stop which helps but sometimes doesn't get an arm that extends forward or a sword that points away.

i've recently looked into advanced techniques such as "focus stacking" and tilt shift lenses.

focus stacking is a method by which you take several, manually focused images and let a software program combine them into one complete image with all areas in sharp focus. tilt shift lenses (which by the way is an expensive option) allows you to control the depth of field by "tilting" and "shifting" the focus plane. it's also used in architectural shots to correct building lines to appear more straight vs the "falling" effect you normally would see in person.

[SquiderM3]

Ed, if anyone knows about sharpness, it's you.

Lead the way master.

[P1X4R]

you're already a master my friend. i'm learning from you now.

[CharlesSong]

[HoldyourfireAl]

This is a dumb question, but shooting at F2.8 vs. F14 won't make an image sharper, correct? F14 will just get more of the subject & surroundings in focus, right? I'm finding that to get a FS Bowen looking sharp all over, I need to use an F14.

[P1X4R]

going from F2.8 to F14 will definitely increase overall sharpness. a common term for this is "stopping down" vs the opposite of "opening up". the effect though is that your background will also come into clearer focus (depending on subject placement and background distance). just something to keep in mind if your objective is to focus on the subject and not to distract it from the background.

as for F stops.. i tend to shoot roughly around F/8 to F/11 for "optimum" lens sharpness. each lens will be different of course. btw, most of my shots are on a tripod so if you shoot at these apertures handheld then you should make sure to have enough lighting or very steady hands.

[patman]

great pointers from the masters! thanks!

[Upitnik]

If you want to get "anal" about it there is also something to pay attention to. The fraction of the depth of field which is in front of and behind the focus distance does change with focal length.
Let say you're shooting at 10mm the depth of field distribution would be roughly 70% at the rear and 30% at the front.

At a 100mm the distribution would be about 52% against 48%.

In real world life that means if the before mentioned arm of a statue is pointing toward the camera like Bowens Bisleys Venom you would be wise to use a longer focal lenght and vice versa applies.

On the other hand, when standing in the same place and focusing on a subject at the same distance, a longer focal length lens will have a shallower depth of field (even though the pictures will show something entirely different). This is more representative of everyday use, but is an effect due to higher magnification, not focal length. Longer focal lengths also appear to have a shallow depth of field because they flatten perspective. This renders a background much larger relative to the foreground even if no more detail is resolved.

Savvy?

[P1X4R]

good point! i've actually shot with a 300mm prime indoors with fantastic results but it limits where i can shoot.

[HoldyourfireAl]

Originally Posted by P1X4R

here's mine guys! lovely!

Mine...



Look at the difference! I'm using a Canon XSi with a 60mm macro lens. P1X4R is using a Canon EOS 5D and (?) lens. What an AMAZING difference! His is sooooooooooooo much sharper than mine!