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Old 01-26-2009, 03:06 PM   #11
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Great stuff E. Look forward to more pics.
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:50 PM   #12
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This is the wax transferring process.
Basically i just mix 1 to 1 silputty by Silpak ( the green stuff) make sure there's no white streaks left, it should be one solid color, this stuff cures pretty fast, and it is definitely affected by the weather, so if it is cold, it will take say 5 minutes to kick, if it is hot it can kick in 2.... which is why you can always add the material in layers.
Which bring us to this....I apply a thin sheet first ( mix enough to cover the area with most detail i.e. the face), I press really hard with my thumb to get all the air bubbles out of the way, and to capture as much detail as possible to the point where you can almost see your sculpt's surface detail.
If done correctly, you can capture almost the same level of detail as an actual silicone mold would....only instead of paying say $600- $800 to have your figure molded and casted in wax and waiting at least 24hrs for the silicone to cure , you will only be spending $30 and a few minutes ( depending on how big your piece is) I usually use one set of two buckets ( A and B) for almost a year, and I probably save thousand of dollars.

Anyway, after covering with the thin layer we let it kick ( not a necessary step, you can add more material even if the thin layer hasn't kicked)
mix more and cover with about 1/8th thickness all around ( silputty is pretty firm, yet flexible, so no worries about making it super thick)


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Old 01-26-2009, 03:52 PM   #13
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Make sure that you cut in a "zig zag" pattern so the "teeth" will prevent the mold from sliding, also note that you should cut on each side of the head, never cut open where your actual face detail is, in case you get "steps" ( mold not aligning perfectly) your face will come out deformed....so always cut vertically behind each ear....that's the way I do it anyway. Also very important, there's no need to cut the mold all the way meaning that you should not cut it into two complete separate halves, you should cut ( sometimes half way) to the point where your original sculpt can be taken out, it is better to keep an area uncut, so that your molds look like a clam, yes a clam .... were it opens "almost" all the way, but there is a spot that will keep both halves together. In case you completely sever both halves, then just mix a bit more material, and seal the "zig zag" cut.
for more info please check this link thanks to Trevor Grove, and Stopmotion for their help on that: http://stopmotionanimation.com/handbook/20.htm



Also, always think of gravity and how that will affect your wax pour, meaning that you should cut out a hole on mold at the highest point of the sculpt,


I usually cut out a hole at the crown of the head if the character is bald, or at the bottom of the neck if the character has hair, this hole will be our pouring area,
At this point, I use an air can, to blow off any sculpey debris .

Then I proceed to seal the mold ( everything except the pouring hole) with yet more silputty , notice how I painted the sealed area with a blue marker
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:53 PM   #14
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:54 PM   #15
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NOTE:
The hole should be wide enough for the wax to pour, yet big enough to allow air to come out...this way your orifice won't get clogged when your wax begins to cool, resulting in a half full cast.


Also, you should never pour wax so hot that produces boiling bubbles.... your wax should never show bubbles, if it does just let it cool off for a few minutes, stir a bit if possible.... also, I try to heat my wax with a very low flame, a strong flame will make it boil, and you do not want that...patience is key. I usually pour enough wax into my mold so that it covers all of the detail, I will tilt the mold back and forth, then return the wax to the pot, by doing this not only am I making sure my wax got into every nook and cranny, but it will help me avoid shrinkage, I let it sit for 30 seconds or so, then repeat the process again, and then fill completely, let it cool off at room temperature for 20-60 minutes or so, depending on how big the piece is.


Notice the "steps" on this arm ( an easy fix) ... imagine if this happened to your sculpt's face...arrrghhh..not good :P
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:54 PM   #16
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:56 PM   #17
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Hope this helps somebody, I am not very good at explaining the process, I just hope the pictures help out haha
Anyway, I usually will wait 2 hours for something as big as the torso before I take it out of the mold, I only waited half that time, at this point the core is still warm, which means this is the perfect time to engineer...yep I start cutting the parts that otherwise would take forever to engineer were the wax completely cool....at this point the core of the sculpt is soft as butter... BTW, I am using a chisel x-acto.
So without further adieu here's some images :



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Old 01-26-2009, 03:56 PM   #18
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Al in all it took me a good couple of hours to get this big guy into wax, base included. Now I have to re-attach the shoulders to the arms, all in all this kit will be comprised of 10-12 parts hands/weapon included ( not sculpted yet)

now it is off to Jordu Schell's studio , where I usually become very inspired by the work of extremely talented people whose work I grew up watching on TV or at the local theater and who happen to be so kind as to answer my questions, YES I AM A NERD!! :P
Anyway, thanks to my dear friend Toi Ogunyoku http://www.gunghoscifi.com
I have learned how to make really cool keys, I will also try to show how I go about doing that in case anyone is interested.
Thanks everyone, and I will keep you updated soon.
-Erick
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:57 PM   #19
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Here's a pic for comparison sculpey VS wax!
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:58 PM   #20
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Here's new images:



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