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Old 07-03-2010, 09:31 PM   #11
Karnageddon
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That is absolutely perfect, it's exactly what I need to know Vince.

I did go out and buy some liquitex iridescent base today, that I can add to any of their acrylics (which i already own) and it came out pretty metallic.
The floor polish and sanding is the next step to make it reflective and glossy.

I wish it were easier to find tutorials on something like this.

Thanks again for all the help.

Quick Edit: What would be a safe way to apply the future floor polish to the surface? Gloves and a small towel or a brush?
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Old 07-04-2010, 12:28 AM   #12
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The future floor polish (or finish as it says on my bottle) i have is a clear liquid that i spray right thru my air brush. Dont need to sand or polish it at all. I just give it a few thick coats without trying to over spray.

I did over spray once on a piece and it was very cloudy but i used a hair dryer on it and it dried and cleared up.

Good example was the shield i redid for Averone on his custom CapAmerica.

http://www.statueforum.com/showthrea...82357&page=163

That shield was covered in a few coats thru a airbrush of the Future floor finish.
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Old 07-04-2010, 01:01 AM   #13
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According to what I saw in some stores today, Future Floor Polish (or Finish) no longer exists, it is now "Pledge with Future Shine" (same logo). After some research online, it seems some people have experienced yellowing and some peeling after months with the pledge version.

I was thinking of giving Varathane Diamond Polyurethane a shot (water based). There is a spray-can version of Varathane that I want to try out since I cannot afford an airbrush at this time.
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Old 07-04-2010, 08:49 PM   #14
Vince-Vell
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Look online, i am seeing a lot of places selling the old future floor finish bottles without the pledge logo on it. Contact them and see if its still the old stock and order it. I may end up trying that myself since i use this stuff for all my cap marvel customs for the clear coats. Id hate to get yellowing on them.

And the future floor finish never cracks and has help up over a year or more on my statues. If i end up not finding any of the old stock ill try a pledge on a bust and see how well it does.
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Old 07-04-2010, 09:07 PM   #15
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They just renamed it. They verified it on the website that it is supposed to be same thing. This is what you're looking for:

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Old 07-06-2010, 04:55 PM   #16
pdxDaniela
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voshizle@gmail. View Post
Super Sculpey will not absorb paint, or anything for that matter. Everything I've ever sculpted I've primed with spray paint, works like a charm. Acrylics and enamels both work fine on sculpey.
If supersculpey wont absorb paint why do they specify acrylic only.
I have mostly oil paints and would be quite happy to use those rather than buy acrylics.
Any advice there?
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Old 07-07-2010, 07:26 AM   #17
Voshizle@gmail.
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It just depends on style. Don't quote me on this but I think acrylic might stick a little better.
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Old 07-07-2010, 10:56 AM   #18
pdxDaniela
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Ok Voshizle...won't be quoting you, ;-)
hmmm. will try coating it w/something first.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:01 PM   #19
Karnageddon
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I'll have to give future a shot this weekend and see how it goes, thanks again.
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Old 07-09-2010, 11:35 AM   #20
Danno
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdxDaniela View Post
If supersculpey wont absorb paint why do they specify acrylic only.
I have mostly oil paints and would be quite happy to use those rather than buy acrylics.
Any advice there?
Solvent based paints going through a process called
"Flashing". Flashing is how a solvent paint binds to a
surface and cures....for oil based paint...the oil
can be absorbed into the painting surface (this is
not a good thing as oil absorbed into sculpey can make it soft)
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