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Old 11-11-2011, 01:13 AM   #11
skorpsta
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Originally Posted by Jesse321 View Post
I have a complete set of Vallejo Game Colors (bought them off Ebay), and believe me they are NOT airbrush ready.
i agree with jesse..they need to be thinned with airbrush thinner and water..i use the vallejo model colors, and some other paints {americana, ceramacote, liqutex and others} and they all need to be thinned with airbrush thinner and water. so id say go with jesses life tones...jesse when i get the funds i will def check out your paints..."airbrush ready" sounds great!..just pour and spray.
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Old 11-11-2011, 01:16 AM   #12
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You want cheap, get the crap they sell at K-Mart and Micheal's. You want quality paints that will make your models and statues look good, and that doesn't clog your airbrush every 3 minutes so you spend equal or more time unclogging it as you do actually painting ... that doesn't come cheap.

Enhancers are just that ... enhancers, they take the base colors and make them pop ... you use them as shade and highlight colors.

Thickener makes the paint thicker so you can use it with brushes for either touch ups or small paint jobs like eyes or dry-brushing.

Flattener is used to reduce gloss colors.
nicely said jesse i do agree..being that your paints are airbrush ready..less clean up on the air brush is always good....by the way jesse will dry to a matte finish... on my personal build and paint ups or statue repaints i always like the matte finish, and sealed with dullcoat. some paints dry to a satin finish and even sprayed with dullcoat there is till a sheen i notice liqutex does that.
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Old 11-11-2011, 08:55 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by skorpsta View Post
nicely said jesse i do agree..being that your paints are airbrush ready..less clean up on the air brush is always good....by the way jesse will dry to a matte finish... on my personal build and paint ups or statue repaints i always like the matte finish, and sealed with dullcoat. some paints dry to a satin finish and even sprayed with dullcoat there is till a sheen i notice liqutex does that.
It depends on the color and kind of paint you're using, most all of the opaques and transparents will dry to a matte finish, but the more pigmented colors will tend to go more satiny (especially yellows and whites) it's just the nature of the chemical composition of the color formulation. Metallics and pearls will always tend to have a gloss because it's how they achieve the metallic and pearlize colors, they can be matted over with Dullcoat, but then you have to ask yourself, why would you use or want flat metallics or pearls? Regardless of how they dry though, every brand of paint (including Garage Kits Colors) should be sealed when a project is completed.

Speaking of which ... if you want a matte sealer, we sell an airbrush usable sealer that's fantastic, which comes in flat, satin and gloss. I know it looks like a lot, but the benefits of using an airbrush ready sealer as opposed to a rattle can sealer ... no wasted overspray, you only use what you need since you're using your airbrush, you can better target smaller areas for spot fixes or pull back and mist for a general seal. Our Top Coats are specifically chemically made to work with our paints ... and best of all ... no waste, whatever you don't use, just drop it back in the bottle ... try doing that with Dullcoat.

Edit ... and I forgot to mention one other little tidbit benefit of our primers and sealers (the wives and significant others will especially appreciate this one) ... NO FUMES!! You can spray this stuff indoors and there's no smell to them.

And BTW another little benefit to our primers ... it dries and is ready to take paint within 15 minutes ... no more overnight waiting for the rattle can primer to cure ... you can start painting 15 minutes after priming, and the same rules about waste apply to the primer ... whatever you don't use, drop it back in the bottle for later use.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:13 AM   #14
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I have som questions....

1 - using white spray primer (eg. tamiya), do I need to cover the piece completely of white or does it take just a light cover?

2 - do I need to sand the white primer or do I need more than one coat?

3 - does it take a light coat of sealer at the end, or do I have to spray the piece until it looks like washed (by the sealer itself)?

4 - I need to have a piece colored like it was manufactured in that color....what kind of colors or technique do I have to use? (I paint by brush at the moment and the result is a color too thick).

5 - what are the transparent colors used for?

6 - if I have to create a flame effect with the crystal resin, do I use transparent color to obtain that transparency.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:42 AM   #15
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1 - I've never used Tamiya Primer, but the same rules apply to all primers, you have to cover the entire surface you're intending to paint in order for the paint to properly adhere to the surface you're painting. Does that mean you have glob the stuff on, no but you should always try for a nice even coat.

2 - If you sand off the primer, yes you're going to have to recoat the sanded areas, because what you've done with the sanding is effectively removed the primer from that area. Primers expose just about every imperfection possible, some that you wouldn't see otherwise, once you see them, you sand them down or fix them, and then reprime. Here's another little great tidbit of info ... our primers are as thin as our paints, so repriming won't cause multiple layers to form, something you should be careful of with some rattlecan primers, especially those which are meant to fill in minor scratches or gaps on surfaces.

3 - that depends on you, and what you're doing with the piece that's being sprayed. If the piece is just going on your shelf for display, a couple of light layers of sealer will be enough. If what you're painting is something that will be moved or handled a lot, like a show piece that will travel from place to place etc. ... I would recommend a few extra coats of sealer. And let me disspell a myth right now, there's no sealer on the market (including ours) that will 100% protect a piece ... even Bowen, Sideshow and DCD pieces get scratches, dings and dents in them. The sealer is meant to protect paints from normal wear, which for a statue is travel in a box, and dust on a shelf.

4 - 99.9% of pre-painted market manufactured statues are painted using airbrushes ... I've only ever found a minute hand full of artists that can achieve the same results with brushes. If you want to get those kinds of results, I would suggest learning to use an airbrush.

5 - Transparent colors are used to build color over another existing color, like darkening the folds on clothing or skin. Basically it leaves the original underlying color visible, and augments it.

6 - yes.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:43 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jesse321 View Post
It depends on the color and kind of paint you're using, most all of the opaques and transparents will dry to a matte finish, but the more pigmented colors will tend to go more satiny (especially yellows and whites) it's just the nature of the chemical composition of the color formulation. Metallics and pearls will always tend to have a gloss because it's how they achieve the metallic and pearlize colors, they can be matted over with Dullcoat, but then you have to ask yourself, why would you use or want flat metallics or pearls? Regardless of how they dry though, every brand of paint (including Garage Kits Colors) should be sealed when a project is completed.

Speaking of which ... if you want a matte sealer, we sell an airbrush usable sealer that's fantastic, which comes in flat, satin and gloss. I know it looks like a lot, but the benefits of using an airbrush ready sealer as opposed to a rattle can sealer ... no wasted overspray, you only use what you need since you're using your airbrush, you can better target smaller areas for spot fixes or pull back and mist for a general seal. Our Top Coats are specifically chemically made to work with our paints ... and best of all ... no waste, whatever you don't use, just drop it back in the bottle ... try doing that with Dullcoat.

Edit ... and I forgot to mention one other little tidbit benefit of our primers and sealers (the wives and significant others will especially appreciate this one) ... NO FUMES!! You can spray this stuff indoors and there's no smell to them.

And BTW another little benefit to our primers ... it dries and is ready to take paint within 15 minutes ... no more overnight waiting for the rattle can primer to cure ... you can start painting 15 minutes after priming, and the same rules about waste apply to the primer ... whatever you don't use, drop it back in the bottle for later use.
thanks jesse!!..for all that info!!...they sound great!
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Alfred_&_Bimba View Post
I have som questions....

1 - using white spray primer (eg. tamiya), do I need to cover the piece completely of white or does it take just a light cover?

2 - do I need to sand the white primer or do I need more than one coat?

3 - does it take a light coat of sealer at the end, or do I have to spray the piece until it looks like washed (by the sealer itself)?

4 - I need to have a piece colored like it was manufactured in that color....what kind of colors or technique do I have to use? (I paint by brush at the moment and the result is a color too thick).

5 - what are the transparent colors used for?

6 - if I have to create a flame effect with the crystal resin, do I use transparent color to obtain that transparency.
click on this link there are some great dvds you should get
http://www.statueforum.com/showthread.php?t=112419
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:52 AM   #18
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thanks jesse!!..for all that info!!...they sound great!
Rob one of the best pieces of advice I ever heard came from David Fisher ... study colors and see how they work in real life, then mimic those textures as best you can.

For example, most super-hero costumes, to be as form fitting as they are, have to be made out some sort of satin polyester blended material right? Go into your closet or a fabric store and find that material, and study it ... then mimic it with your paints.

For mother of pearl ... look inside an oyster shell, you'll see it's glossy ... mimic that.

Find rocks and metals in their natural unprocessed states, or if you're doing something that's been processed ... look at that and see how the colors and textures flow on the materials and mimic that.

Also, realize that different things have different textures, the shirt your wearing might be matte, but if you're doing a sculpt where someone is wearing metal, or glasses, or a visor ... those are going to be different, so treat them differently. If you just matte over everything, it's going to look wrong to the eyes. As painters what we do is try to make stuff look like its supposed to ... eyes and lips are moist, so they should have a gloss, teeth are covered in saliva, so they should have a gloss, even your finger nails reflect light differently than your skin, pay attention to those little details and try to capture them in your paint ups ... that's the kind of stuff that makes the difference between a good paint up and a GREAT paint up.
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Old 11-11-2011, 11:59 AM   #19
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Rob one of the best pieces of advice I ever heard came from David Fisher ... study colors and see how they work in real life, then mimic those textures as best you can.

For example, most super-hero costumes, to be as form fitting as they are, have to be made out some sort of satin polyester blended material right? Go into your closet or a fabric store and find that material, and study it ... then mimic it with your paints.

For mother of pearl ... look inside an oyster shell, you'll see it's glossy ... mimic that.

Find rocks and metals in their natural unprocessed states, or if you're doing something that's been processed ... look at that and see how the colors and textures flow on the materials and mimic that.

Also, realize that different things have different textures, the shirt your wearing might be matte, but if you're doing a sculpt where someone is wearing metal, or glasses, or a visor ... those are going to be different, so treat them differently. If you just matte over everything, it's going to look wrong to the eyes. As painters what we do is try to make stuff look like its supposed to ... eyes and lips are moist, so they should have a gloss, teeth are covered in saliva, so they should have a gloss, even your finger nails reflect light differently than your skin, pay attention to those little details and try to capture them in your paint ups ... that's the kind of stuff that makes the difference between a good paint up and a GREAT paint up. :thumbs2
once again my friend...thanks so much, and its guys like you...my close personal friend mike morgan {who taught me all i know about this hobby} joe, david fisher, saul, danno, phil lister...and so many more amazing painters and kit builders...who inspire me to paint and create...and in this hobby i never stop learning..thanks again my friend...and fellow modeler. rob.
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Old 11-11-2011, 12:25 PM   #20
Alfred_&_Bimba
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse321 View Post
1 - I've never used Tamiya Primer, but the same rules apply to all primers, you have to cover the entire surface you're intending to paint in order for the paint to properly adhere to the surface you're painting. Does that mean you have glob the stuff on, no but you should always try for a nice even coat.

2 - If you sand off the primer, yes you're going to have to recoat the sanded areas, because what you've done with the sanding is effectively removed the primer from that area. Primers expose just about every imperfection possible, some that you wouldn't see otherwise, once you see them, you sand them down or fix them, and then reprime. Here's another little great tidbit of info ... our primers are as thin as our paints, so repriming won't cause multiple layers to form, something you should be careful of with some rattlecan primers, especially those which are meant to fill in minor scratches or gaps on surfaces.

3 - that depends on you, and what you're doing with the piece that's being sprayed. If the piece is just going on your shelf for display, a couple of light layers of sealer will be enough. If what you're painting is something that will be moved or handled a lot, like a show piece that will travel from place to place etc. ... I would recommend a few extra coats of sealer. And let me disspell a myth right now, there's no sealer on the market (including ours) that will 100% protect a piece ... even Bowen, Sideshow and DCD pieces get scratches, dings and dents in them. The sealer is meant to protect paints from normal wear, which for a statue is travel in a box, and dust on a shelf.

4 - 99.9% of pre-painted market manufactured statues are painted using airbrushes ... I've only ever found a minute hand full of artists that can achieve the same results with brushes. If you want to get those kinds of results, I would suggest learning to use an airbrush.

5 - Transparent colors are used to build color over another existing color, like darkening the folds on clothing or skin. Basically it leaves the original underlying color visible, and augments it.

6 - yes.
thanx for everything...I absolutely have t try your colors and other stuff...
thanx again jesse
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