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Old 05-19-2014, 02:27 PM   #21
S-tier Adam
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This looks interesting. I hate wasting even a drop of RTV(expensive silicone), so maybe I'll give it a try. With the waste molds I make, I cut up old waste molds and recycle them so that there isn't too much being used. Do you think the amount of savings doing wax transfers with the DIY silicone method is pretty significant? Sounds like it might be negligible, but if you any idea of what this could save me in the long run, I would super appreciate it.

Also I was wondering what material your piece was before the transfer? It's neon yellow in the picture. You said you use a 3d printer right? I have no experience with these, so I'm really curious.
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Old 05-25-2014, 05:59 PM   #22
MeoWorks
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Cost wise, I guess for a soda can sized casting, the price for the tube silicone would be about $4. I've never honestly done the math but I just felt it was a waste using the good stuff only once and then grinding it down.

The original was printed PLA (ploylactic acid).
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:31 PM   #23
S-tier Adam
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I picked up some alginate since it's dirt cheap and has a super high yield, but I haven't had any luck with it. It just has a really odd consistency and really weak tear strength. I think I'm gonna give your waste mold method a try.

Can you sculpt the PLA stuff or is it like resin?

Also I always though you didn't need a vacuum chamber if you have a pressure pot.... but I just made a master mold the other day which had a lot of air bubbles. It's the first time that it's happened, but it was a huge bummer because it was the head piece, so I had to sand the crap out of it and honestly it doesn't look as good as the wax. I was thinking the only reason it happened is because the silicone wall closest to the face was too thin, but maybe it's because it wasn't vaccuumed.

How much would it cost to setup a vaccuum chamber? I'm still not convinced I need it even after having air warts all over my sculpt's face, since that's the only time i've had that happen. Still curious though.
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Old 06-23-2014, 01:41 PM   #24
MeoWorks
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PLA is a hard plastic and I don't consider it a workable material after it cools. It's just a very cheap way of transferring something from a 3D environment to reality. The huge downside is that it needs this extra step to get all the cleaning and details in.

Honestly I don't use a vacuum much. I just crank the pressure pot to 55PSI and there isn't usually a problem with silicone and trapped bubbles and pockets.

That's not to say a vacuum isn't a good idea when you're using an expensive silicone.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:20 PM   #25
aleks
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Hello. I have a little question for you.
Which type of silicone you use? Acrylic Silicone or Acetic Reticulation Silicone? (the one who smell of vinegar). I used often acetic for waste molds but always applyng thin layers one on one after the first is dried...is a long long process..
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Old 03-08-2015, 04:19 PM   #26
cyborgt800
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@Aleks If you read the directions you'll see the vinegar smell mentioned so that should answer your question.
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Old 07-31-2015, 03:40 PM   #27
pharon66
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Well, I'm going to try this asap! Using smooth-on products for my waste molds gets pricey fast. With this, I can just stick to using their stuff for my master molds.
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Old 11-19-2018, 04:11 PM   #28
Handsy
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I have tried moulage which I think is alginate(not sure)... the problem is that it shrinks a lot and just doesn't produce very accurate casts. It's kind of a pain to melt as well. At least how I was trying it with my own homemade double boiler. The good thing is that moulage can be used over and over again if taken care of properly. I like it for molding really rough works in progress if necessary where the shrinking problems aren't a big concern.
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