Did Alclad kill my brush?

moon_knight1971 · 05-05-2008, 07:08 PM

I often find myself using Alclad lacquer for effects or jobs that I am doing. I've never had a problem with Alclad II Chrome but last week I used Alclad Copper & my brush pretty much stopped working. I always rinse out my brush with water then shoot airbrush cleaner through it but this time my brush didn't come back to its old reliable performance. Someone suggested I soak it in CLR to break down paint deposits that I mave have missed. This worked somewhat but my brush is only at about 50% of it's original condition. A weird observation I noticed was that the air comes throught the brush & out of the tip at full blast but when I add something even as this as water it only shoots out small wide mists, it cannot do a fine line. I primarily use a Badger 100G if that info is needed. Thanks.

**Vince-Vell** · 05-05-2008, 07:24 PM

Few things about badger since its all i use.

1) you pushed the needle way to far to the tip and it no longer is a fine brush. Fine tip badger heads get worn out fast. Specially if you pull the needle out and then place it back in wrong or to far. So prob time to replace the tip/head.

2) the spring inside the back part of the airbrush that screws out could be clogged and or worn. Prob is clogged since using my 100 for 3 years never got worn.

3) Pull the needle out with the spring loaded part too. If by twsited the tiny screw that locks the needle in place, and then you cant pull the needle out. You must unscrew the entire spring part the needle slides thru. Prob got some paint gunked in that part and way safer and easier to pull it out and clean.

You are gonna need to get yourself other brushed for stuff like metallics, pearlized and stuff that has chopped/fine metallic bits in it. Fine tip needle are a big no no for that, as they will always get clogged and never for a fine mist. You will need brushes that have medium or large tips. I have dedicated my paacshe millennium fine tip brush for alclade. Basger 100 fine tip for super detail work and only use water downed paints. Sotar 2020 for the detail but bigger areas and a badger 360 for all my metallics and pearls.

Hope that helps some.

PS: Using my badger 360 for super big areas and metallics, i have to clean that thing all the damn time. Were as my badge 100 never needs to be cleaned like the 360.

Danno · 05-05-2008, 08:00 PM

John is right, I have a dedicated Badger 100G (fine) for all solvent based paints. I don't switch back and forth between water based and solvent based, this greatly extends the life of your airbrush.

Now..I do use a fine tip 100G for all my metallic work and works without any problem what-so-ever. The 100 G is a great and durable brush

I also have a dedicated 100G for base coating large areas as well (with water based paints)

All highlights, shading and detail work is saved for my Sotar 20/20. But I just received my Badger Renegade series Velocity today and if it is half as good as Badger says, this will become my new primary detail brush and replace my Sotar 20/20.

Now, for your issue, John may be correct, that your airbrush tip and needle finally gave way. Try taking some acetone and let it soak in your airbrush reservoir for about 3-4 minutes and spray it out and see if it clears out your tip. Slide the needle out and clean it and slide it all the way up forward gently until it seats snugly in the tip and tighten the needle chuck. Turn your pressure down and give it a few test sprays. If it still is spraying too wide, you may need to purchase a new tip and needle and you should be good to go.

moon_knight1971 · 05-05-2008, 09:43 PM

Great advice John & Danno! Will try them all. Question about using CLR: Will it damage the brush by soaking it in it? Eat at the seals or anything like that? I am buying acetone right after work to give that a try.

**Vince-Vell** · 05-05-2008, 09:47 PM

I never used Acetone or CLR (dont know what that is) for my stuff. I just soak them in createx cleaner for 20min or so while doing other stuff and then use various cleaning tools to pull out any caked paint.

But only time i ever need to do that is on my badger 360.

I only use my paasche for alclad and use createx cleaner for that. So far it gets all the chrome out with ease. Not sue about the copper tho.

Danno · 05-06-2008, 09:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moon_knight1971

Great advice John & Danno! Will try them all. Question about using CLR: Will it damage the brush by soaking it in it? Eat at the seals or anything like that? I am buying acetone right after work to give that a try.

I have never heard of using CLR in an airbrush before, so I really don't know. The seals are typically teflon (plastic) so be careful about how long you let any harsh cleaner soak.

**Vince-Vell** · 05-06-2008, 09:09 AM

What the hell is CLR anyway?

Danno is right, once those plastic seals go your screwed. Only way to replace them as far as i know is sending it back to badger. Least the seal inside the brush where you can get too.

Wouldnt acetone melt away the bees wax? since thats what i use to air seal my tips/heads on my badgers

Danno · 05-06-2008, 10:03 AM

Acetone would break down beezwax in a new york second. But I don't use that either, I use the simple seals that come with the airbrush, as long as you don't over tighten anything, everything holds up perfectly. It's only what the parts wear out that you need some extra seal.

Now, I will say...the customer service from Badger is second to none. op notch and remember, the badger brushes are guaranteed for life, so send it in for repair and get it back in a week or so. The only parts that you may have to pay for would be just the parts that need replacing every so often (needles, tips, seals, etc...)

**Vince-Vell** · 05-06-2008, 10:41 AM

Im a fan of the bess wax tho, i love to know there is no air leeks what so ever. Guess its how you learn, since my professor in college showed me his tips and tricks and stuck wit me.

i did send in a badger nail brush last summer, all i paid was shipping. Came back free shipping and they replaced the inside seal. Cant beat that!

So MK or Danno what the hell is the CLR?

moon_knight1971 · 05-06-2008, 12:13 PM

Hey guys! CLR stands for Calcium Lime Rust remover. It's an industrial cleaner usually used for cleaning bathrooms. Tommy Allison suggested that I use it because it worked for him. I bought 2 more airbrushes & will send my 100G to Badger to have them work their magic. Thanks again for the advice!